Good braking techniques are the key to quick lap times

Concentrating on your braking techniques can allow you to make up lots of ground on the rider in front of you. Good braking techniques and cornering skills will help you make up positions during a motocross race but so many riders aren't confident using their brakes to their full potential.

The front brake on a motocross bike provides about 70% of your stopping power but riders get nervous about the front end washing out. The rear brake doesn't provide as much stopping power but is effective in keeping the bike stable whilst braking.
When braking you should be in the attack position gripping the bike with your knees, particularly when the braking area is rough, to allow you to keep control and take some strain off your arms and shoulders.

When approaching a smooth corner under brakes your weight should be back on the bike to stop the rear wheel from lifting. If the corner has large braking bumps (usually the case on sandy motocross tracks) then centralise your weight to allow the bike to rock underneath you over the bumps. If the corner is off camber, move your weight forward to weight the front wheel to prevent it from washing out.


Practise
Here are a couple of exercises to help you practise your braking techniques.

Pick a flat area with consistent traction and while moving slowly in first gear gradually apply the front brake until the front wheel starts to lock. You will need to increase the throttle to stop the bike from stalling. As the front wheel starts to lock, release the brake then repeat the exercise. This will get you familiar with the feeling of the front wheel locking so you can brake to the point of maximum traction without locking the wheel and washing the front out.

Another exercise is to get four witchs hats or markers and lay out a large rectangle. As you approach the end of the rectangle, lock the rear wheel and skid steer the bike around without putting your feet down. Use good clutch control to avoid stalling the bike and as the rear end of the bike comes around smoothly release the clutch and move up to the other end of the rectangle to repeat the exercise.

With regular practise you will greatly improve your braking techniques and combined with good cornering skills you'll be much faster overall.

click here to open [video tips]

Rail Rutted Corners And Berms Like A Motocross Pro

fast out', brake as late as possible but stay in control as you enter the turn.


Corners can be roughly divided into 3 types - bermed, smooth and rutted.


Berms.
Berms come in all shapes and sizes and because you can carry more speed through them, so many motocross riders instinctively head to the berm. Whilst cornering around the berm can quite often be faster, particularly in wet conditions when traction is hard to find, a lot of the time the inside line around a motocross track whilst feeling slower will actually be quicker.

Take a good look at the berm, does the corner have a wide apex meaning is it a long way out to the berm from the inside of the corner? The extra corner speed you carry will be lost if you're travelling 3 times the distance of the guy who took the inside line through the same corner.

Having said that, the fact that berms allow you to lean the bike into them and carry more speed through the corner means that you can get a good flow happening from one corner to the next.
The steeper the angle of the berm the more you can lean the bike into it.

The best line is usually to enter the berm high and then turn and drive down the face as you exit. Stay smooth through the berm, squaring off by locking the back wheel to slide it around and then driving down the face is slower than holding a smooth flowing line.

The exception to this is when you need to avoid a rough section on the outside of the berm where you would normally exit or if you need to square up your line to get good drive to a jump straight after the berm.

Squaring off in berms can be good for block passes, these are done by outbraking the rider in front of you and taking the inside line into the berm and going under the rider you want to pass, brake slide your back wheel onto the higher line on the berm and the rider who is now behind you will have to brake or take evasive action to avoid hitting you from behind.

You probably won't make a lot of friends at motocross races with block passes but they are an acceptable, legitimate form of passing.


Smooth Corners.
Because of the neutral or off camber in smooth flat corners, body positioning on a motocross bike is crucial to get the most traction and drive. As you finish braking for the corner slide forward into the cornering position on the bike.

This should be seated with your inside leg out towards the front wheel. You should be up on the corner of the seat so that as the bike is leaning over for the turn your body is still vertical. Lean heavily on the outside footpeg, this will help weight the bike for increased traction.

Rutted Corners.
Cornering in ruts takes a combination of skill and confidence. Ruts psyche out so many motocross riders because the technique requires the rider to allow the rut to steer the bike. Because of this learning to corner well in ruts can make a huge difference to your lap times.

Entering the rut is the most important part of the whole process, dropping into a rut partway through a corner certainly is not the best option.
Again brake hard into the corner and approach the entry to the rut at a steady pace. Enter the rut with your weight forward, your elbows up and your head over the cross brace, lean with the bike into the rut weighting the outside peg.

Allow the rut to steer the bike, if you try to fight it the front wheel will climb out and you'll get out of shape. As you pass the apex of the rut start accelerating, the more speed you can carry through the more centrifugal force you'll exert on the bike causing it to really stick in the rut and allowing you to accelerate hard out.


click here to open [video]

Elusive Motocross Holeshot

Dirt Starts.

With dirt starts again prepare the surface where your rear wheel will be driving out of the gate. Kick some dirt into the rut left from previous starts and stamp it down firmly. This will give you a harder more tractable and smoother surface up to the base of the start gate. The only real difference from concrete starts is to have your weight forward on the bike and to pick a lower gear because there will be a lot more traction as you launch off the start.

Get a friend to time you trying different techniques with your starts, the stopwatch never lies.

It's been said a thousand times before but I'll say it again, there's only two parts to a race - from the start gate to the first corner and from the first corner to the chequered flag. Pull a perfect motocross holeshot and you're halfway there.

I had a visitor to my site send in some info that his son was being taught about how to pull consistent motocross holeshots. I've included it below.

click here to open [video]

Motocross Racing Tips For Beginners

Follow these motocross racing tips to make your race day as pain free as possible.

1. Accomodation.
If you're racing in some small town somewhere, a well attended motocross meeting can nearly double the population overnight. Don't expect to just turn up the day before and get somewhere to stay. Book ahead and save yourself the hassle, this is also handy when you're on a budget and the last place with a vacancy is also the most expensive place in town.

2. Walk the track.
Regardless of whether you've arrived the day before or race day morning, one of the more crucial motocross racing tips is to walk the track. Take notice of any wet sections which will rut up quickly and any other obstacles which may be a problem for you.

A really good idea is to walk the track with a faster, more experienced rider. They've probably ridden a lot of different tracks and you can pick up some good motocross racing tips by listening to them as they look around.

3. Scrutineering.
Scrutineers have to check your bike (and quite often your helmet as well)to make sure it's safe and passes certain inspections. These rules and regulations vary so make sure you're up to date on what's allowed and what's not for your bike.

They will check things like wheel bearings, spoke tightness, functioning brakes and that handlebar ends are plugged etc. Some scrutineers can be quite pedantic so follow these motocross racing tips and give your bike another quick check over before you get it scrutineered. I once had my bike refused just because it didn't have a valve cap on the back wheel.

4. Rider's Briefing.
If the race meeting has a rider's briefing then go to it! They have them for a reason and will explain the starting procedure and quite often will inform the riders of a last minute change to the race order or something similar. You'll feel like a real stooge if after all your preparation and studying these motocross racing tips you go and do something stupid like miss your race!

5. Practice.
Practice sessions vary in length so find out how long your practice will be beforehand (remember our motocross racing tips about riders' briefings!). Too many riders go out and just ride at race pace, remember no-one ever wins practice.

Wait for everyone else to start and practice a couple of starts yourself. Work out what gear to start in and which gates look to have the best line into the first corner. Ride the first lap at a moderate pace and have a good look at the track, it will look a lot different on your bike than from when you walked it so pay attention to different entry and exit lines in corners. On your second lap pick up the pace and try to put together a smooth sequence of corners and jumps etc.

Take notice of any sections you struggle with and on the next lap try to get it just right, also ride alternate lines on corners, this will be the only chance you get without it being a high pressure race situation.

6. Starts.
Get yourself to the start line with a bit of time to spare, a lot of meetings will have a random draw to decide who gets first choice for a start gate at the first race.

Pick the best gate available to give you a good entry line into the first corner. Stamp down any loose dirt on your start pad and in front of your gate, if the rider before you left a wheel track that's not straight your rear wheel will follow it.

Once you're in position make sure you've got your goggles and you're ready to go. A technique I use is to close your eyes for a few seconds and visualise your start, I know it sounds likesomething only the guns do but it even helps gumby riders like me! Take a few deep breaths and try to relax, nearly everyone gets nervous on the start line, it won't just be you.

When the five second board is up have your goggles on and your bike in gear, once the gate drops accelerate smoothly off the line.

7. Race Plan.
Your first priority after the start will be to get through the first corner unscathed. Hopefully you've pulled a good start and you're heading into the corner in a decent position. There couldn't possibly be a worse time to throw it away than right nowwhen most of the field is right behind you.

Hold your line through the corner keeping an eye out for the occasional kamikaze pilot who goes screaming into the corner without any idea how he's going to get through it.

Ride smart, if a couple of riders pass you don't stress. So many times there are tangles in the pack in the first corner and you can pick up a handful of positions just by staying out of trouble.

If you're super fit then your race plan is pretty simple, just go as hard as you can for the entire race. However, if you're like the rest of us then you need to ride smart so you can get through the length of the race in reasonable shape. A lot of crashes are caused by rider fatigue some good motocross racing tips are to look for smooth and flowing lines that will allow you to conserve energy.

Use your legs to grip the bike, your leg muscles are the largest muscle group in your body and will take some of the strain off your arms and shoulders.

Try to put some space between you and the rider behind you early in the race, that way he'll be thinking less about catching you and more about the rider that's behind him. Resist the temptation to ride above yourself, especially when you're under pressure from someone behind you. Stay smooth and concentrate on your braking into corners, you'll expend a heap of energy unnecessarily trying to correct your line if you run wide in a turn.

8. Between Races.
After you've finished your race, gotten your breath back and once all your friends have finished patting you on the back for your stellar performance, get your bike and your gear organised for your next race.

Give the bike a once over, lube and adjust the chain and check whether the air filter needs cleaning or replacing. Clean your goggles and fit new tear offs if you need them. Refuel if necessary and if it's muddy clean your number plates so the lap scorers know who you are. It's a good idea if you don't have access to a bike wash between races to just scrape as much mud as you can off your bike, it's amazing just how much weight mud can add.

Get yourself a drink and a bit of fruit if you feel like eating. One of the more important motocross racing tips is to go and have a look at how the fast guys are riding the track. Track conditions can change dramatically from race to race and you may see some lines that you didn't see when you were racing. Remember, the line only has to be a tyres width wide.

Watch how more experienced riders tackle difficult sections of the track. Talk to other riders as they come in after their race, ask them how they went and how the track is, everyone loves talking about themselves and you may pick up a couple of handy motocross racing tips from the fast guys.



click here to open [video tips&techniques]

Racing Bike Brand ( Suzuki RM-Z 450)

Riding Impression: 2011 Suzuki RM-Z450

It would take a real close look to see the changes made to the 2011 RM-Z 450. They are not exactly visible and they are mostly done to sound good. No, not like that, the new 94dB AMA rule had most of the manufacturers giving the bikes a few engine and muffler changes to keep the bikes quiet and not lose any performance and Suzuki has done that.
Through a series of changes to the pipe and muffler, bumped compression ratio, cams and FI settings the bike still bites without as much of a bark, especially at low rpm, and that makes up the majority of changes though there are a ton of small things to tune last year’s proven package. There are also plugs included with the bike to richen or lean the FI setting depending on your conditions.



New Muffler Design

Powerful Performance

New Headtube Adding

Our bike starts up first kick and without a very hard kick on the starter, maybe that is a class leading feature, come to think about it. It has a noticeable reduction in bark out of the muffler and those two decibels really make a difference in sound when the bike is riding around the track compared to all the other bikes. The Suzuki has a really great clutch feel and the transmission is spaced close and has the right ratios, shifting is never an issue. But likely the biggest difference between the 2010 and 2011 is the bottom end power. Due to the sound changes the bike has become smoother, which for 99% of riders is a better thing whether they think so or not. What it has done is pushed the point where the bike really barks to a position in rpm and throttle to farther up the curve. On a tacky, traction packed track like Milestone was yesterday, you’d initially want more punch. But it just took some time to remember that you were on a 450 and all it took was a little more throttle in the turn and it was problem solved. Trust us when we say there was always more throttle to be turned. We bet this motor will be a sleeper in how fast it does not feel and how fast it goes. Anyplace off the bottom you’d better be ready to use the brakes harder than you are use to because you will be going a lot faster than it feels like the motor is pulling you from the mid-range right to the top.

Onto the handling and suspension side of the design, and here nothing stands out as the best we’ve felt in any one area. But it doesn’t take long for the package to start to impress in all aspects. The stability, the area the 2010 chassis changes addressed, without hampering the handling, is good. But what really shines on the RM-Z is the proper feel in the steering and how willing the bike is to change lines at will and with control. Through its Bridgestones and with good feel for the ground a skilled rider can get the bike to do things that take a lot more effort on other brands. And the good power plays to this game. The suspension does not feel soft or stiff, more of a just right character. It uses the stroke, maybe more than some other bikes but has excellent bottoming resistance and I used it plenty. The adjusters make noticeable changes and are totally capable of making a wide range of riders happy.



SPECIFICATIONS

CHASSIS:
Overall Length 2190 mm (86.2 in)
Overall Width 830 mm (32.7 in)
Wheelbase 1495 mm (58.9 in)
Ground Clearance 325 mm (12.8 in)
Seat Height 955 mm (37.6 in)
Curb Weight 113 kg (249 lbs)
Transmission 5-speed constant mesh
Final Drive Chain, DID520MXV4, 114 links
Suspension Front Telescopic inverted, coil spring, oil damped
Suspension Rear Swingarm, link type, coil spring, oil damped
Brakes Front Disc brake
Brakes Rear Disc brake
Tires Front 80/100-21 51M, tube type
Tires Rear 110/90-19 62M, tube type
Fuel Tank Capacity 6.2 L (1.6 US gallons)
ENGINE:
Displacement 449cc, 4-stroke, liquid-cooled, single cylinder, DOHC
Fuel System Suzuki fuel injection
Starter Primary kick
Ignition Electronic ignition (CDI)

click here to watch [video]

Racing Bike Brand ( Kawasaki KX-F 450)

The new 2011 Kawasaki KX450F has a race-ready engine is compact and light, with a short 100mm cylinder head and a 12.5:1 compression ratio. A wedge-shaped crank offsets 60 percent of the crankshaft's reciprocating weight, producing an effective "counterweight" effect.

This is on par with Kawasaki's factory racers and helps reduce engine vibration, smooths power delivery and enhance low-rpm throttle response. A stainless steel exhaust pipe connects to the revised silencer, which uses long-fiber packing material to maximize service intervals.

A rubber-damping collar in the rear silencer mount provides a boost to long-term durability. The KX450F's Digital Fuel Injection (DFI) automatically adjusts to suit track and climate conditions, and offers stable fuel metering even when landing from jumps in tough motocross conditions.

The DFI system includes a compact and lightweight ECU, a 43mm throttle body, a lightweight aluminum fuel pump and an ultra-fine atomizing injector. Set at a 45-degree angle for ideal mid-range power, the 10-hole injector sprays precise, 60-micron fuel particles for smooth power delivery and accurate engine response throughout the rpm range.

Designed specifically for motocross, the KX450F's lightweight DFI system doesn't require a battery; the engine can be started within three rotations of the crankshaft using only the electricity generated through the initial stroke of the kickstarter.

An optional ECU Setting Tool allows racers to select from several different ECU data maps, or fine-tune a custom map that alters fuel injection and ignition timing to suit different tracks and conditions. The tool can also be used as a data logger, recording up to six hours of data, including engine rpm, degree of throttle opening, engine boost, coolant and air temperatures, ignition timing, fuel adjustments, gear position and system voltage.

Engine Overview

• 449cc liquid-cooled, DOHC, four-stroke single
• Bridged-box
bottom piston design offers optimal engine performance
• Reinforced
crankcase is strong and durable
• A forward
lean angle of 3 degrees puts the engine in the ideal position for
maximum traction
• Tuned for a
broad powerband with the torque curve set just under the wheelspin
threshold
•
High-acceleration cams help the engine rev quickly
•
Maintenance-free automatic cam chain adjuster
• Large
airbox flap helps prevent mud and water from entering
Bridged-box Bottom Piston
• Same design as used on our factory racers; offers improved
performance at all rpm
• Lighter and
more durable than traditional piston designs
• Short
piston skirt features low-friction coating for reduced mechanical losses
• Reinforced
external ribs for strength and durability
• Revised
profile with fully flush internal bracing results in a lighter, stronger
piston
• Short
piston pin offers increased strength
Cylinder Head
• Compact head is only 100mm tall
• 36mm
titanium intake and 31mm exhaust valves with aluminum spring retainers
minimize reciprocating weight and cylinder height to help ensure
reliable valve control at high rpm
• Double
valve springs allow a short cylinder head height and help ensure stable
valve operation
• Camshafts,
lobes and tappet surfaces feature a soft-nitride treatment for long wear
and high-rpm reliability
Crankshaft
• Crankshaft with high inertial mass helps maximize rear wheel
traction
•
Wedge-shaped crank web provides enough offsetting moment for a 60
percent balance factor – and is similar to the crank balance in
Kawasaki’s factory race engines, resulting in reduced engine vibration,
smoother power delivery and increased performance, with a noticeably
snappier response at low rpm
• Crankshaft
and connecting rod feature a special carburizing and quenching treatment
to maximize rigidity

Front Fork
• Race-oriented suspension settings offer maximum overall
performance
• Revised
damping settings offer improved action and increased comfort during the
initial phase of the suspension stroke
• Kayaba
Air-Oil-Separate (AOS) fork keeps oil and air in separate chambers for
stable damping performance during long motos. Low-friction fork seals
contribute to smooth action
•
Diamond-like Carbon (DLC) coating on the outer surface of the inner fork
tubes offers minimum stiction when the fork is exposed to lateral
forces that would usually hamper slide action. The result is improved
fork response, especially during cornering
•
Friction-reducing Kashima Coat on the inside of the fork’s outer tubes
contributes to smooth suspension action (especially at the initial part
of the stroke) and a superb ride feel
• Wrap-around
fork tube guards offer effective protection for the sliders
Rear Shock
• New damping settings contribute to increased stability and
improved impact performance when landing from jumps
• Rear
suspension settings and linkage ratios derived from extensive rider
testing
• Kayaba rear
shock features a large 50mm piston
• Rear shock
features dual compression adjustability, allowing high-speed and
low-speed damping to be tuned separately
• Also
features Kashima Coat treatment on the cylinder for reduced friction and
smoother suspension action
• Easy
adjuster access for track-side suspension tuning

easy Starting
• Strong output from the large ACG rotor provides enough
electrical power for the battery-less FI system to enable true one-kick
starting without using a battery
• Equipped
with an automatic compression release (ACR) system for quick and easy
starting. The dual-weight centrifugal decompression system is fitted to
the exhaust cam
• Compression
release features 1.0mm of valve lift, to minimize the required kicking
power
Efficient Cooling
• High-capacity Denso radiators feature tightly packed cores and
a fin design that delivers superior cooling efficiency
• Radiators
don’t need reinforcing brackets, which results in lower overall weight
• Shrouds
feature a slim design that melds with the radiators’ design
• Radiator
louvers feature four small blades set at a shallow angle for minimum
overlap and maximum air flow
Strong and Durable Clutch
• Clutch assembly provides a direct feel and superb control
• Excellent
oil drainage contributes to more direct feel
• Friction
plates with substantial friction material contribute to a more direct
feel
• Large
operating plate pusher reduces the clearance between the pusher and the
input shaft hole, improving clutch operation
Close-ratio 5-speed Transmission
• 5-speed transmission and low-rpm engine response combination
offers riders more gear options for traversing rough sections or getting
into the rhythm of a course easily so they can focus more on racing
• Thinner
inner-link chain is light and strong
•
Sprocket-style chain drive roller reduces the effect of driveline lash,
helping smooth engine braking and facilitating additional corner entry
control


Additional Features
• Skid plate made of resin material offers great protection
without excess weight
• Clutch
cable boot features a large quick adjuster, making it easy for riders to
adjust play in the clutch cable on the fly
• Increased
front axle collar diameter transmits more feedback from the contact
patch to the rider
• Ribless
rear hub and butted spokes offer light weight and excellent durability
• Rear
caliper guard helps protect the caliper from damage

click here to open [video]

Racing Bike Brand ( Yamaha YZ-F 450)

2011 Yamaha YZF450

The 2011 Yamaha YZF450 is a pure bred race machine. With a fuel injected 449cc 5-valve engine, an incredibly strong hybrid chassis with motocross-wide-track stance and super premium triple adjustable long travel suspension, the 2010 Yamaha 450R was made for the motocross track.

Designed to dominate the race track, the YZF450 is sure to draw many checkered flags.

With a wide-track chassis and long travel suspension, the YZF450 provides incredible stability, confidence and control. The poerful 5-valve 449cc race engine is fuel injected with many components developed from our motocross bikes including the cylinder, cylinder head, cams and crank designs. The engine is cradled by a hybrid aluminum chassis for optimized strength and rigidity, making the YZF450 the most capable racer we've ever developed.

Highlights

Wide-Track Chassis

Fuel injected 5-valve 4-stroke race engine

Lightweight Aluminum Frame





Key Features:

Race Engine

Awesome power comes from a fuel-injected 449cc, 4-stroke, 5-valve, DOHC engine, spinning optimum high RPMs. This YZ-inspired engine tuned to boost low- and midrange power for arm-straightening drive out of corners.


Incredible Performance

A compression ratio of 11.6:1 and optimizing port shapes help the YZF450 make maximum power. Stout bearings and connecting rod add even more strength and reliability.


Fuel Injection

Yamaha's Fuel Injection uses a 12-hole injector to provide exceptional atomization of the fuel for maximum combustion efficiency and power delivery. Idle Speed Control (ISC) and the large 42mm Mikuni® throttle body delivery easy, reliable starting, and continually monitor air temperature, intake pressure, engine temperature, throttle position and more, to ensure the right fuel delivery. So fiddling with the carburetor jetting is a thing of the past, all you have left to do is focus on the ride.


Lightweight Aliuminum Frame

The no-weld cast aluminum frame is light and strong, providing solid groundwork for the front and rear suspension systems. The wide track helps the YZF450 achieve amazingly flat and precise cornering.


Wide Arc Design

The front a-arms "Wide Arc" design makes room for awesome ground clearance. The upper and lower a-arm pivot points are positioned close together to reduce the pivot angle to improve suspension control.


Professional Suspension

9.8 inches of front wheel travel, controlled by 44mm fully adjustable KYB shocks with Kashima coating, means precise handling and a smooth ride.


Racing Controls

ProTaper® handlebars are mounted on 4-way clamps for exceptional adjustability. There are two sets of holes in the handlebar crown, and eccentric clamps so the rider can choose the standard setting, 10mm or 20mm forward, or 10mm back. The thumb throttle is designed to minimize effort. The front flip-type parking brake is removable for racing. The front brake lever is adjustable and the clutch lever is adjustable on the fly.


Cushioned Panels

Easily replaceable panels in high wear areas will provide flex and grip for aggressive riding.

Exclusive 20" Rear Tires

20" rear tires offer extra ground clearance and the best all-round performance for track and trail.

Super Wide Foot Pegs
65mm wide foot pegs help ensure your feet have traction when you need it.


2011 model Yamaha YZF450
Engine 4-Stroke Single, Liquid Cooled w/ Fan, Titanium 5-Valve DOHC
Displacement 449cc
Bore and Stroke 95mm x 63.4mm
Compression Ratio 11.6:1

Carburetion Yamaha Fuel Injection (YFI) , 42mm
Ignition TCI (Digital)
Starting Electric
Transmission 5-Speed, Manual Clutch
Final Drive 2WD; Sealed O-Ring Chain, Eccentric Adjustment

Suspension (Front) Independent Wide-Arc Double Wishbone, w/ 9.8" of travel. Kashima coated Piggy Back shocks featuring High/Low Speed Compression, Rebound and Threaded Preload Adjustment
Suspension (Rear) Cast Aluminum Swing Arm, w/ 11.0" of travel. Piggy Back shock featuring High/Low Speed Compression, Rebound and Threaded Preload Adjustment.
Brakes (Front) Dual Ventilated Hydraulic Disc , Twin Piston Calipers
Brakes (Rear) Wave Style Ventilated Hydraulic Disc, Twin Piston Caliper
Tires (Front) AT21x7-10 Dunlop KT351 Radial
Tires (Rear) AT20x10-9 Dunlop KT356 Radial

Length 1,795mm (70.7")
Width 1,240mm (48.8")
Height 1,065mm (41.9")
Wheelbase 1,270mm (50.0")
Ground Clearance 235mm (9.25")
Seat Height 810mm (31.9")
Wet Weight 184kg (405 lb)- ready to ride full of fuel and oil
Fuel Capacity 10.0 L
Colour(s) Team Yamaha Blue

click to open [video]

Racing Bike Brand ( Honda CR-F 450)

Honda CRF series


2010 Honda CRF250R at the 2009 Seattle International Motorcycle Show.
The Honda CRF series is a line of four-stroke motocross and trail motorcycles manufactured and marketed by Honda.
The CRF line was launched in 2002 as a successor to the Honda XR series. The full sized motocross bikes are equipped with liquid-cooled, single-cylinder four-stroke engines that are available from 149 cc to 649 cc. They now have dual-sport motorcycles. The entry-level CRF's have simple air-cooled engines, and are available from 50 cc to 230 cc. The Honda CRF450R was the first in the series, followed with the CRF250R in 2004. Further down the line, the CRF450X and CRF250X bikes emerged, both designed for mostly off-road use. They are considered among the best motocrossers of their class, and have been a leading seller since their introduction.[1]
[edit]

Engine technology

Honda employs advanced four-stroke engine technology in their 250cc and 450cc bikes. The engines in these bikes use technology developed in Formula One racing engines. Honda uses an over-square engine design, this means that the diameter of the cylinder is larger than the stroke of the piston. This allows for higher engine speeds and a reduction of reciprocating mass. Another technology that is used is short piston skirts. The "skirt" area of the piston is the portion on the side of the piston which comes into contact with the cylinder wall and aids piston stability. While the introduction of the shorter skirt on the piston helps to reduce reciprocating mass, it also leads to more "rocking" of the piston, or minute unwanted rotation of the piston around the axis of its wrist pin. This leads to more frequent maintenance intervals for the pistons, piston rings, and cylinder walls.

click to open video

In the motocross Competition (AMA motocross rules)

General Guidelines

All riders in AMA-sanctioned competition are required to be AMA competition members as well as a member of their
recognized district organization; associate members may not participate in AMA-sanctioned off-road competition. If
an AMA district membership isn't required in a rider's home district when competing outside their home district is not
required to purchase another district's membership unless the rider wants their points kept and eligible for year-end awards
in that district.
Minimum age for amateur riders is 12. In all off-road events, a rider must be 14 years or older to ride motorcycles above
250cc. Rider's age is determined as of event date, except in youth competition.
No rider under legal age of majority in the state in which meet takes place may compete without written consent of their
parents or legal guardians present at the meet. An authorized adult can only act on behalf of the minor rider with a notarized
statement indicating that the parents or legal guardian have consented for the authorized adult to be responsible for the
minor rider during the meet, and must remain present at the meet.
Standard meets are open to all qualified AMA members, regardless of gender.
Only Class A riders (highest classification) may compete for cash prizes. Rider classification is determined by district or by
meet referee in unrecognized districts.
All race personnel, officials, riders, mechanics and/or anyone associated with the riders and photographers are prohibited
from consuming or being under the influence of intoxicants or drugs.
Any riders and/or family or pit crew directing foul language to any officials or promoters are subject to disqualification for the
entire meet. Riders are responsible for the actions of their family and pit crew and risk disqualification for any negative
behavior and actions.
- All riders and personnel must rely on their own judgment in terms of assessing safety and assume all risks of participating
in competition in any manner.
- Pro motocross or Supercross riders, or any riders with a professional racing license from another country are eligible to
compete in amateur competition and are eligible for cash awards from the event, but not eligible for district points. Pro riders
are not eligible for factory contingency unless otherwise stated in the contingency program guidelines or rules. Pro riders
must wait one full year after their pro license expires to be eligible for Amateur National competition or year-end district
awards. To ride in a promoter offered Pro class, riders must have a Pro license.

Riders and Classifications

Riders are responsible to enter only classes in which they are eligible.
The AMA classifies riders on the basis of participation and achievement unless otherwise provided by AMA rules.
- Classification designations are : Class A (highest classification), Class B and Class C. Additional entry-level classifications
may be established at meets based on amount of rider participation and other circumstances.
Riders go up in classification based on their RPV (rider performance value).
Participating or advancing in a higher class in any AMA or non-AMA activity results in permanent advancement to that
higher class in all like AMA-sanctioned competition.
A rider can decide to advance at any time to a higher rider class but may not return to a lower rider class without AMA
approval and can only return to a lower class once. Riders can appeal their classification once to the AMA.
Riders returned to a lower class are only those whom officials deem completely non-competitive in the class they are
leaving and will not dominate the class to which they are returning.
Failure to comply can result in disciplinary action or suspension.
Any Class B riders aged 12-15 will not be forced into Class A, regardless of how many races or points they have. Riders in
this age group may advance based on their own ability.
A rider may not use more than one machine in any class, under penalty of disqualification. More than one contestant may
ride the same motorcycle so long as the riders are entered in different classes.


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Motocross History

History of Motocross



In 1924, the first known British off-road event known as the Scrambles was held at Camberley in Surrey. This would become the earliest known origin of freestyle motocross as we know it today.



Over the years, the event would evolve, largely through the efforts of riders from Europe who shortened the tracks while adding laps and various obstacles through the course such as jumps.

The sport's popularity would increase during the 1930s, particularly in Britain where events involving teams from various districts and companies would be held regularly. Bikes used in those competitions at the time would be barely distinguishable from those used on the streets.

1950s to 1970s

As the competition intensified and the terrain increased in difficulty, the technology used for the design of competition and special-event motorcycles would improve, particularly with the introduction of the swinging arm suspension during the early 1950s.

The international motorcycling governing body held the 500cc displacement formula European Championship in 1952 that was subsequently upgraded to World Championship status in 1957 followed by a 250cc equivalent in 1962 where two-stroke motorcycles began to make their mark in the industry.

Various companies throughout Europe from countries such as Sweden, Czechoslovakia and Britain thrived by creating models that became renowned for their lightness and maneuverability. The introduced improvements in motorcycles during the 1960s would relegate the older and heavier four-stroke machines to smaller, niche events.

In the late 1960s, companies from Japan would rival their European counterparts in the manufacture and production of high-quality motorcycles for motocross enthusiasts. In fact, in 1970, Suzuki would claim the first world championship for its motherland after being victorious in the 250cc event.

1975 would see the introduction of the 125cc world championship and the sport experienced significant growth due in no small part to the increase in popularity of motocross in the United States. While European riders would continue to excel in events held during the 1970s, the Americans would gradually improve before winning international competitions during the 1980s.

1980s to 1990s

It was during the 1980s that rapid technological enhancements in motocross would take place thanks to the innovation of companies from Japan. These included the creation of water-cooled machines as well as the monoshock rear suspension device.

During the 1990s, new laws were introduced to ensure that the production of four-stroke motorcycles would adhere to environmentally conscious standards



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Start a Dirt ride @ Race Track

Basic Rules And Information



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The Motocross Race Track

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Motocross Safety Gears

helmet:

goggles

neck brace

knee pads

racing suit

chest pad

racing boots




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Dirt Bike Lesson No. 1

step 1.


You will fall off a 2 stroke quickly and could be detered from learning.Fourstrokes are easy and fun to ride, and have great power. Make sure you get a bike that is the right size for you because you don't want something too big that you can't handle-your dealer or whoever you are buying from will help you with that. I would suggest a 100-250cc older,cheaper bike, its preferable to dropping an expensive brand new bike.


Speed: When you are riding down a nice straightaway and you feel like goosing it, try to start in a low gear. This keeps you in better control and will conserve energy.

Turning: The trick to getting maximum speed and the best setup in a turn is control. Stick with it and keep steady power. Keep your outside elbow up and your inside leg out


humps: Hitting big jumps can be scary if you are not comfortable with your riding ability yet.
Lift up your handlebars and stand up a little.Before you hit the ground, give a little gas so your bike will flow smoothly.


step 2.

• Always be aware of speed limits, crossing points, and pedestrians. They have the right of way.
• Always ride with a camelback or fender pack...keep sparkplugs, tools, energy bars, water and a cellphone with you at all times. You never know when you will need it.
• Magazines such as Motocross Action and Transworld MX give great tips on making adjustments to your bike.
• Don't get cocky about what you can do on your bike. You will likely get brought back to earth pretty quickly.
• When jumping from dirt ramp to dirt ramp over a gap make sure to get the right speed. Going too slow, just like going too fast, might be painful.
• If your a first time rider, don't push yourself too hard, learning to ride a dirtbike is like learning to ride a peddle bike.
• Watch for arm-pump ( forearms/hands getting extremely tired) could be potentially dangerous!
• When building jumps, start small and work your way up. Try the jump before adding on to it.

warning:

• Always wear MOTORCYCLE protective gear. A hockey helmet might save you from the puck, but not from falling from a motorcycle. Similarly, knee/elbow pads for rollerskating aren't sufficient for riding a motorcycle. If you fail to follow these directions, it may result in serious injury or DEATH.
• Don't let your friends ride your bike. If they crash, that's just one more part you have to buy!
• If you're going to do tricks, make sure you know what you're doing and are not going to kill yourself. Don't try to impress your friends with something you can't do because chances are you will crash and they will laugh.
• Know your limits.
• Make sure that where you are riding is safe and you are allowed to be there

Things you'll need

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